Vintage and retro have come to mean different things to different people. Generally, they both refer to clothing and accessories that pre-date the seventies and all the way back to over a hundred years ago. Secondhand stores that specialize in vintage and retro clothing will often have a vast selection of clothes from many different eras. However, recognizing vintage clothing can sometimes be confusing if not clearly marked such as in thrift stores or at garage sales. Here is a quick guide to the major eras and some of the key fashions and influences of those times.

Apparel:
High, boned collar blouses with embroidery or lace Lacy petticoats Floor-length skirts Linen car coats Boned undergarments Shirtwaists for women

Cloth:
Natural fibres: linen, cotton, wool, and silk
Sheer organdy, batiste or opaque poplin

Adornment and Accessories:
Lace Embroidery Jet beading Flowers Ribbon Net Tucks in fabric Pastel silk sashes Huge picture hats piled with flowers, ribbon, and stuffed birds or feathers Walking canes for men Straw boaters for men

Footwear:
Buttoned or laced leather boots Court shoe with a small, Louis heel Beaded evening shoes Pumps Patent leather and canvas boots (men)

Sign Of The Times:
Ford Model T's Neon Lights Bicycling Fountain Pens Rayon Yard "Gibson Girl" hairdo's The Cake Walk dance Sergers first used in the clothing industry

Apparel:
Long, ethnic-influenced (Asian or Middle Eastern) tunic Cummerbund-style wrapped waist Hobble skirts and harem pants Trains on skirts and dresses Intense colour and richly decorated materials Square necklines and the V-neck Utilitarian Clothing: tailored, mannish appearance
Sportswear

Cloth:
Natural fibres: linen, cotton, wool, and silk Synthetic fibres: rayon (artificial silk) Serge and gabardine Sheer fabrics- organza, chiffon, crepes Jersey Denim as a leisure fabric

Adornment and Accessories:
Embroidery Beading Braid Feathers Furs Tassels Decorated Stockings Buttons Turbans Feather-spiked bandeaux

Footwear:
Eastern-style jewelled slippers Practical shoes Lace-up and high-buttoned boots Pumps with removable buckles Sneakers

Sign Of The Times:
Oriental motifs Telephones The Foxtrot Bobbed hair Rayon invented 1910 Kewpie Dolls WW I Women's suffrage Movement Roots of Prohibition The Great Influenza epidemic of 1918 The RMS Titanic sank Frank Lloyd Wright's Arts & Crafts movement Silent films U.S. Rubber developed the first sneaker, called Keds, in 1917 Converse started producing its All Star line 1917

Apparel:
Skirts ranging from knee to mid-calf Dropped waist Sleeveless dresses Beaded dresses with plunging necklines and /or backs Raccoon coats Knit Chanel-influenced suits Hand-knitted sweaters Sleeveless or cap sleeved scoop-neck lightweight dresses with no waistline or lowered waist Layered suit-styled jacket, blouse, skirt sets

Cloth:
Natural fibres: linen, cotton, wool, silk Synthetic fibres: acetate, rayon Crepes, georgette and knits Silk in both sheer chiffon and opaque fabrics

Adornment and Accessories:
Beading Furs Feathers Flowers Lace American Indian and Egyptian motifs Rolled stockings Cloche hats

Footwear:
A single-bar pump with a pointed toe High-tongued, cutaway-decorated, crossover, and t-straps Harem slippers and slides Two-toned spectators for men

Sign Of The Times:
Cigarettes, smoking in public Extreme dieting Short hair (the Eton Crop) Showing your knees Egyptian style craze, inspired by discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1923 Streamlined Art Deco lines and figures Development of bias-cutting fabric Invention of acetate fabric in 1924 Jazz Clubs Crossword Puzzles The Lindy Hop Silent and talking films Gramophone records The Charleston Easy-care fabrics The Model "A" The "flapper" Prohibition Speakeasies Mass production and the development of affordable synthetic fabrics

Apparel:
Bias-cut silk dresses Sarongs Silk pajamas Double-breasted suits Knee-length silk chiffon dresses with small floral patterns Handkerchief hemlines Large collars and cuffs
Self-belted waists Two-piece suits with square-shaped jackets, large buttons and narrow, lean skirts in thin materials Puffed sleeves with long fitted cuffs Slacks
Casual wear Furs

Cloth:
Natural fibres: sometimes linen, but mostly cotton, wool, and silk Synthetic fibres: acetate, rayon Velvet Georgette Crepe
Organdy Satin

Adornment and Accessories:
Novelty-shaped plackets Lapels Pockets Belts Necklines Large collar and cuff sets Medieval or ultra-Deco themes Two-piece belt or jacket clasp worn at the centre waist Costume jewellery Nylon stockings Fezzes and hats Novelty buttons

Footwear:
Platform shoes Sandals Evening shoes with straps Loafers

Sign Of The Times:
Finger-waved hair Surrealist art Costume dramas Dance Marathons Resort living Airplane flying Colour "shocking pink"
Nylon invented in 1939 Development of two-way stretch weaves in fabric The stock market crash of 1929 Talking movies

Apparel:
Trouser suits Pencil skirts "Popover" wrap dresses Peplums
Sloping shoulders Three-quarter sleeves Side-closing zippers The fitted jacket-and-skirt suit, with a peplum to the hip Lace and taffeta eveningwear Cap-sleeved cotton or rayon blouses and matching tap-style shorts or wide-leg pants

Cloth:
Natural fibres: linen, cotton, wool, and silk Synthetic fibres: rayon, acetate, nylon Net overlays

Adornments and Accessories:
Minimal trim Fancy covered buttons Extra tailoring details Two large hip pockets at either side of the waist Hats of every shape and shape and size Shoulder pads Alligator accessories Painted legs with back seams and tans using makeup Marten stoles (long fox-like animals strung together)

Footwear:
Platform shoes Cork or wood-soled "Wedgies" Pumps with t-strap or bows

Sign Of The Times:
Minimal trims and embellishments Everything was recycled
Rationing Alligator skin Big Band Music The War effort Pin-up girls Jelley-rolled hair Zoot suits Movies

Apparel:
Full skirts Constructed jackets Sweater sets Beaded and fur-collared cardigans Princess and A-line dresses Capri pants
Circle skirts Hawaiian shirts Formal dresses of taffeta, tulle, and net "Chemise" waistless dresses Trapeze dresses
Peter Pan collars Small-collared, fitted blouses Pleated knee-length skirts Fitted eveningwear with heart-shaped opaque strapless bodice with a sheer silk or nylon overbodice Prom night evening gowns of pastel nylon tulle Long-sleeved button-up sweaters Ethnic scene prints in day and leisure wear

Cloth:
Natural fibres: linen, cotton, wool, silk Synthetic fibres: rayon, acetate, nylon, modacrylic, acrylic, polyester, spandex Cashmere Brocades Satin Velveteen Taffeta Net Tulle Chiffon

Adornment and Accessories:
Beading of sweaters Detailing circle skirts Diamond-shaped underarm panel Appliqué, rickrack, screen-printing, sequins, or glitter Flutter hems Sculpted pleats and necklines Rhinestones Cat-eye glasses Barkcloth in casual wear

Footwear:
The Pump Stiletto heel Saddle Shoes Converse sneakers Sandals Ballet slippers

Sign Of The Times:
Bobby Soxers James Dean look-alikes Motorcycle gangs Beatniks New fabrics: acrylic (1950), polyester (1953), and spandex (1959) Consumerism Post-war boom New gadgets and gizmos Television Westerns Ponytails Hula Hoops Beatniks UFO lore Soda fountains Rock Ôn Roll

Apparel:
Jackie O-style sheaths and short jackets Miniskirts
Hotpants Bellbottoms Hiphugger waistlines Fringed suede
Citrus-colour "Palm Beach" prints, paisley and psychedelic prints Tie-dye looks Simple shift or princess line dresses Mini length dresses with ultra-modern or baby doll details Dress and coat sets Boxy jacket and skirt suits Plaid skirts Mohair sweaters

Cloth:
Almost all fabrics available Synthetics like vinyl

Adornment and Accessories:
Little trim Simple motifs seen in piping or embroidery Encrusted panels on a jewel collar and cuffs Pill Box Hat

Footwear:
Boots Sandals Platforms Classic colonial or Edwardian-style pumps Go-go boots

Sign Of The Times:
Space-age fashions Mod fashions Preppie fashions Invention of aramid fabric (1961) "Me" Generation Hippy Movement Flower Children Vietnam War Civil Rights Movement Experimental music, literature, and art The Beatles, Bob Dylan, Motown, Andy Warhol Space Travel Vinyl and plastic clothing and shoes Mod fashion The Space Age Pop Art Colour TV Skateboarding Troll dolls Spy TV and Movies Lps

Apparel:
Granny dresses Pantsuits Wide collars and lapels Synthetic shirts Loud prints Wrap dresses and skirts Designer jeans
"Prairie" influence "Le smoking" tuxedo jackets Leotards Halter necklines Punk styles Mumus Straight, skinny synthetic shirts T-shirt Polyester knit suits Princess-line polyester print dresses with any sleeve length Leisure wear One-piece dresses or pantsuits Wide and pointy lapels Bellbottoms, flares, elephant bells and wide leg pants

Cloth:
Every fabric we know today Natural fibres regaining popularity
Synthetic fibres very common: polyester most popular, nylon, acrylic, acetate, rayon blends

Adornment and Accessories:
Trims were often minimized Crocheted lace and bead borders Appliqués and novelty stitches Prints Beading Sequins Rhinestones

Footwear:
Platform shoes Simple pumps Sandals Boots Platform heels with straps Loafers Running shoes

Sign Of The Times:
Flower children and hippies Polyester as the new staple fibre
Militant feminism Civil Rights Watergate scandal Vietnam War Punk and Glam movements Feathered hair Plaids Bell-bottoms Loud, clashing colours Mopeds Long hair and Afros Disco and glam rock Roller-skating 8-tracks

I would like to thank Rosemary Carlile and Louise Alston from E.X.Sales for allowing us to use some of their dresses for this article.

I am also grateful to www.antiquedress.com for supplying us with the images for the dresses from 1900 to 1920.

Photos: Niki Campbell

For more detailed information on the history of vintage fashion, check out the following Web sites: www.vintagevixen.com
www.centuryinshoes.com

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